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In the 2004 documentary Mondovino, the famed French enologist Michel Rolland was shown being chauffeured in a Mercedes-Benz, barking out the same formulaic advice to his clients via cellphone (“micro-oxygenate, micro-oxygenate”). Although Rolland later claimed that he was unfairly portrayed in a sinister light—a task made easier, it must be said, by his devilish beard—the cameo in Mondovino hurt his image and the reputation of wine consultants generally. These days, they are widely regarded as witch doctors hired by rich guys to make wines that will become trophies for other rich guys.